CJLO Investigates Normcore

In this new series, the CJLO Magazine investigates subcultures and various "cores". First up, Sarah Stupar from Best of the West discusses the origins of Normcore.

In order to understand the phenomenon of "normcore" I traced the word to its origin. Normcore is a term that was coined by a trend forecasting group in New York City called K-Hole in collaboration with Box 1824, a Brazilian group that does consumer and culture research. In October of 2013, they released a document called "Youth Mode: A Report on Freedom". In this report they outlined their theory that it is no longer possible to be special or unique, and that young consumers now realize the futility of trying to distinguish oneself based on fashion or appearance. Normcore they argue "doesn't want the freedom to become someone. Normcore wants the freedom to be with anyone." Normcore then isn't about trying to create an authentic self, but giving yourself the permission to move within different groups and enjoy a range of different experiences not limited to one subculture.

Mass media got a hold of this report and immediately appropriated the term "normcore" to mean something totally different. The authors of the report stated (through their Twitter account) that normcore was never meant to describe a fashion trend, but a state of being. The point of being normcore is that you could not be easily categorized due to your appearance. Normcore is dressing like a goth and accepting an invitation to a garden party; normcore does not sacrifice image for experience.

Style bloggers, however, took a hold of this word and used it to describe a breaking trend in the fashion world. In the lead up to "normcore", style bloggers pointed out that the trend in attire for attending a fashion show was to dress in a head to toe "look" that could sometimes be so outrageous it would take focus away from the clothing being shown on the runway (think Lady Gaga). It seems that the trend of fashion industry insiders embracing flat shoes and simple black/tan/grey nondescript ensembles happened simultaneously to K-hole's normcore report, causing the word to be appropriated by the fashion industry and mass media outlets. In fact, if one visits the K-hole Facebook page there is a post which accuses Fiona Duncan of confusing the term "Acting Basic" with normcore in a style piece she wrote for New York Magazine's fashion blog The Cut (#Acting Basic was a state of being also referenced in the Youth Mode report).

Even within the fashion world there seems to be different interpretations of normcore. GAP retailers launched a new advertising campaign with the slogan "Dress Normal" featuring GAP doing what GAP does best: over priced simple T-shirts, jeans and khakis. Yet some of the most frequently cited style icons for normcore are Jerry Seinfeld and Steve Jobs, or anyone who dresses like a "dad". The Guardian describes normcore as "a gawkiness verging on the ugly", a quality I would argue that is completely absent from the GAP dress normal ads. GAP's version of normcore still hinges on having style, while other definitions stress the complete absence of style in favour of functionality.

GAP "Dress Normal" Campaign

Normcore slideshow from The Cut

So what is normcore really? Even though the creators of the phrase never intended it to apply to fashion, it's clear that such a thing is unavoidable now. So I would like to humbly offer my own definition of normcore. I would argue that it is definitely rooted in the recycling of early '90s fashion, but true normcore can happen only by accident. Unlike earlier hipster trends of wearing ugly things ironically, true normcore kids are oblivious to the outdated styles and cheap fabrics of their outfit. They are awkward when it comes to style and strive for functionality above all else; since thrift shops are now full of early '90s clothing that is what ends up on their backs. Normcore isn't scouring a thrift shop for that amazing gem hidden amongst the worthless castaways, it is simply walking in and picking out three new shirts because you need them and you want them cheap.

So perhaps true normcore really isn't about fashion at all and it really is a state of being. Normcore is knowing that your personality is what matters when it comes to making connections, not the clothes on your back.

--Sarah Stupar hosts Best Of The West every Wednesday at 9 AM, only on CJLO 1690AM